< by Cynthia Karaha

One thing that was apparent is that the Festival Musicas Mesticas Salvador 2009 was not about commercial music, or which band can bring more fans, or crunching number like most World Music festivals have become. It was simply about good music, originality and artist camaraderie.

There was a sense of preservation of Afro music and pride. Whether you heard of one band and not the other, curiosity prevailed. And you had to take your time to listen to every new sound embracing the stage. No two artists or bands sounded the same. Yet the collaboration of many artists on stage like Les Tambours de Brazza (Congo) and Bahian guest artist Carlinhos Brown, or BélO (Haiti) and guest artist Margareth Menezes, felt like the artists were made to perform together. We must give respect to the Festival commit for these well thought out collaborations.



The Festival Musicas Mesticas Salvador 2009 was the closing of a yearlong celebration of France in Brazil. The collaboration was absolutely a harmony of events. Both the French and the Brazilian governments supported the program. Carlinhos Brown, Brazilian artist/composer, decided in 2007 to refurbish a national monument building, and creates a center for Black music. Thus "Museu du Ritmo" (Museum of Rhythm), which exposes Black history through art, music and culture. Festival Musicas Mesticas Salvador 2009 was held in the courtyard of Museu du Ritmo. www.carlinhosbrown.com.br/en/universe/museu-du-ritmo/



The first Night, Tcheka (Cabo Verde) caught my attention on his first note. A very simple artist with some amusing sound was coming from his guitar playing which sounded more like percussion then strings of Afro rhythm. Occasionally it would remind me of the flamingo rhythm. Tcheka's bass player would often trick you by playing some guitar cords on the bass. The drummer, which who was apparently placed on the left side of the stage instead the usually spot in the back center, would blow you away with some unusual beats. I couldn't understand what Tcheka was singing about, but it was a great musical experience, and I immediately looked to purchase his CD after the show.



Next, appeared a more familiar sound and language with LesTambours de Brazza (Congo). They are really what we call a showstopper. They fused heritage African drum rhythm with modern bass and guitar sound. About twelve musicians where eight of them play a tall percussion drum and intertwine some intricate dance move. There were some serious military and energy choreographs Sabar steps on that stage. When you think, It could not get better, Carlinhos Brown, Bahian superstar, invaded the stage with his Samba drummers. Wow! What a rush the mix of African and Samba Rhythm just took over the entire backyard and the echo of the drums bouncing of the wall give a high dept surround sound. It started to pour like the heavens were blessing the performance, yet the audience including myself was too busy dancing and total intrans to look for shelter. Well, the rain didn't last long and the performance energy turn into an adrenaline bomb.



The second night was more Afro modern sound of Percussivo Mundo Novo of samba drummers mix with Techno sound of a keyboard, laptop, video game high tech guitar.
It was a bit atypical, but nevertheless it was a nice musical and visual show. Next, starting with "Ayiti Leve," on a high note, we could hear BélO's crisp and raspy voice reverberating against the wall all the while holding on to the emotion that BélO let off. I don't think I have ever heard an outdoor concert sound so good even with the sound restriction policy of 90 decibels of that particular neighborhood. It must have been something in the Brazilian air for I have never seen BélO engulf an entire stage. The band's chemistry was on point and "Lakou Trankil," which is BélO's number one hit, took a whole new dimension on stage. The keyboard player Harold St-Louis added some true African tempo, which the second Keyboard Fabrice Rouzier was supporting. BélO popped a "Nago" step (war dance) based on a Vodou rhythm and reggae "Ragganga," bringing his unique flavor to this Afro festival. Many Brazilians were emulating the step by the end of the song. Then came the diva, Margareth Menezes, loved by the Brazilian audience, who started with her popular song "Me Abraça e Me Beija e Abraça e Me Beija" www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ARqVBRZj34&feature=related . The fans practically took over the chorus part of the song. It is one thing to hear BélO sing in Portuguese, but listening to Margareth Menezes sing in Kreyol the words to "Mizik A Jah" gave me goose bumps. I would have loved to see Mounira Mitchala's and Tiken Jah Fakoly's performances, but we had to leave the next day.



This trip was more than just about a festival it was a journey in time, but I was not aware of it until leaving Salvador. The ethnicity of country remains authentic and many parts remind me of Haiti. The music and culture have barely been touched by modern influences. I am not embarrassed to say that I created my own sign language and my own version of Portuguese words because I was not going to let the language barrier stand in my way of communicating with the locals. Brazilians are very polite and the most important word that you must learn upon arrival is "obrigado" (thank you). It will take you a long way. I drove a taxi driver crazy because I had my mind set on visiting a clothing shop where they make "Bahiana" (traditional Bahian women's dresses). Pépé took me all over town looking for it and finally he found it around the Placa Da Sé, where I also got a chance to take a photo with a Saia de Bahiana. Obrigado Pépé you made my trip. And I am sure that I made some life long friends who were in charge of the event and production of the festival. Gabriela, BélO's angel, we are grateful for the Portuguese lesson. Jeannine, Alessandra, Rita, I will be back. Unfortunately, I can't give away too much of the inside stories "What happens in Bahia stays in Bahia" I must say though we were treated with much respect the minute we arrived at the airport until it was time for us to leave. Most of all BélO, Fabrice, Harold, Stanley, Tom, Keke and Dony represented Haiti in all of its glory.